Update 15/04/2025 1200 GMT -8 hrs – Somewhere between the Galapagos and Marquesas Islands.

We were well beyond the halfway point when we finally had our halfway party.

Despite really missing our Code Zero (we had to drop it after the shackle that keeps it up was coming undone), we are making good time under mainsail and genoa. However, we need more than 15 knots to do so.

I’m not sure if I should say this out loud, but I’m becoming increasingly confident that we won’t encounter any boat-stopping issues before Fiji.

Update 25/04/2025 1530 CET -9.5 hrs – Tahuata

Last Monday we arrived in Hiva Oa after an 18 day passage from the Galapagos Islands. We had already noticed in the last week that small organisms had started to grow on the lowest step of the transom, the swimming platform. But when we got into the tender, after a celebratory drink, we saw how, about 30cm above the waterline, the hull was covered in a brown, greenish growth. Just like all the other boats in the bay. We looked like we had been at sea for a hundred years.

The cost of living in the Marquesas is very high. However, the supermarket doesn’t bother to stock much fruit and vegetables because the 2500 inhabitants all have access to their own, or their neighbours’ produce. If you’re a fisherman, you can trade or share your fish for some greens or even a piece of wild goat or boar your friend has hunted in the mountains.

On Wednesday afternoon, Jan and I started doing fuel runs. This meant filling a 65L and a 55L drum with diesel, hauling them over to the dock, lowering them 4m down into the tender, hauling them on deck, pumping the fuel over and repeat.

To be honest, the scarcity of certain things and the lack of resources such as a fuel dock, takes getting used to.

On Thursday we met with a guide who proudly showed us his islands. Jonathan “Teiki” Chastel possesses a wealth of knowledge on both archaeological and contemporary socio-political affairs. He showed us the Tikis that are hidden in the jungle and the most beautiful bays and valleys of Hiva Oa.

Today, Friday, we sailed 10nm to Tahuata, the next island, to find an incredibly picture-perfect beach. The anchorage is surprisingly busy though with some 20 boats here.

We went snorkeling and saw a variety of small and medium size reef fish. Most of all I was happy to see only one piece of plastic, which I took with me. After a gorgeous sunset, we turned on the underwater lights. After 30 minutes four black tip sharks, about 2 to 3m in length started hunting around our stern. A 2.5m wide Manta ray performed a series of backward somersaults. An incredible spectacle!

Update 03/05/2025 1915 CET -11.5 hrs – A few miles southwest of Nuku Hiva

Time flies by just as fast in the Pacific islands as it does anywhere else. Even the cruisers we meet never have enough of it. Perhaps the islanders here do.

In Tahuata Sara and the kids got lost in the jungle. Only by listening for the surf break and looking for the sun, they found their way back. Between the boat and the beach they swam with sharks. Meanwhile I went aloft and finally got the pin back into the shackle that keeps our Code Zero up. We have our wings back! We sailed into the sunset for a 70 mile run to the island of Ua Poa.

With the first morning light we rounded the ominous volcanic peaks and cliffs on the northwest side. A spectacular sight and the dark clouds that hung above us made it all the more intimidating.

As soon as we rounded the next cape the sun came out. We saw more of the island’s spectacular landscape as the clouds subsided and unveiled the majestic “Pillars”. We anchored in front of the very small community of Hakahetau.

The next day a short 4 hour passage took us to Nuku Hiva. Another majestic island with a bigger community in Taiohae. After running low on provisions it was exciting to see well stocked supermarkets.

The second day, the kids and I were picked up by Akiona. A cow farmer who takes visitors on horse rides. In the back of his pickup truck, he drove us over the mountain ridge onto the plateau. We were in awe of the spectacular vegetation on the steep mountain edges. From time to time he had to slow down to avoid the free roaming horses and cows. The ‘Small Marquesan Horse’ is a descendant of the Chilean horses in the Andes. They are incredibly strong. I saw one grazing on a steep slope in a stance I’ve never seen a horse in before. Marquesans are big guys and they use these horses to hunt in the mountains and herd their cows. Right before we mounted the horse Akiona casually asked if we had experience. Luckily we did! Ten minutes into the walk, without warning, he spurred his horse on to make it jump over a fallen tree trunk. So we had to follow suit! It was a beautiful ride in fresh cool forest air, it felt unreal!

Wednesday was spent mostly on provisioning as the next day everything would shut for labour day.

We were getting ready to leave on Friday when disaster struck. Sara went to undo a line from the tender and suddenly shouted “ouch OUCH!”. I stood 3 feet away from her, looked over to her, saw a heavily bleeding hand. I grabbed her hand and thought her nail had been half ripped out. I pushed it up and behind her head and said “Don’t look”. I shouted “Get ice!” An immediately reacted with sterile gauze and ice. From behind me I heard Jan say “Whoa whoaa” he pointed to the cleat where he saw a piece of Sara’s finger still sitting between the lines. I picked it up, An brought 2 ziplock bags and we put it all on ice. All the while Sara was as cool as a cucumber! We gave her two big painkillers, put her in the tender and Jan and I raced her to the shore. They got out and Jan flagged down the first car. Ten minutes after the accident, Sara was in the hospital which was luckily close to the dinghy dock!

The piece was too small to reattach though and hopefully it will -pretty much- grow back.

Sara’s injury was redressed this morning. We are helping her with pain management and of course are very wary to avoid infection! The nurses said it was well under control and if we looked after her we were free to go.

Update 16/05/2025 1515 CET -12 hrs – 10Nm south of Bora Bora

The crossing from Nuku Hiva to Fakarava in the Tuamotus was a breeze. We saw the predicted lightning and thunderstorms but they kept their distance from us. We arrived at the planned time, last Wednesday.

Fakarava is a truly fascinating place. The north passage is wide and easy to get into, on most days. Most other entrances of these atolls are tricky to get in. After heavy rainfall the water flows out of the lagoon creating adverse currents of -in some places- up to more than 8 knots.

The northwest side of the atoll is where most of the 800 inhabitants live. Even at its widest, you have to walk less than 600m to go from the lagoon to the ocean.

There is one road of about 35kms long and everybody lives on either side of it.

We went for lunch ashore and were impressed with how clean and manicured everything looked. There was a calm atmosphere, perhaps the island’s largest attraction. The lunch shack had its own jetty. Pretty soon we were excited to spot the sharks patrolling close to the beach. It’s crazy how quickly one gets used to these spectacular sights. When we saw nurse sharks swimming right on the beach we almost thought it was as normal as seeing pigeons on the market square.

While pearls are cultivated in the lagoon, shells and coral with the most mesmerising colours and shapes are all over the windward, ocean-side beach.

On Saturday, we wanted to fuel up and leave. After about 100 litres the flow stopped due to a power cut. This would be resolved by 3pm when they’d open again. No stress. One last lunch ashore at the shack of our first lunch.

One out of the 4 days that we were there it had rained intensely all day. So we were pushed out of the reef cut but were met with a steep choppy surf. We picked the least daunting looking part and plowed straight into it. After a minute or 2 we were out of the groundswell and started our calm, windless passage to Huahine. A great passage for stainless steel polishing.

After less than 48 hours of motoring we saw the sun rise over Huahine as we entered its northwest reef passage. Once inside the reef the water was like glass. A pod of dolphins with long pointy snouts greeted us.

We feel the end of the trip nearing. We feel it mostly in our planning decisions. There isn’t much margin anymore and we have to get a move on! With a feeling of regret we left Huahine’s fairytale decor for Raiatea just 20 miles further. The anchorages of Raiatea were crowded.

The village Uturoa, which has a marina and small boatyard, isn’t very charming. After another quick provisioning and fuel stop, we crossed the channel to Taha’a, situated within the same barrier reef.

We anchored in front of a resort with stilt house cabanas standing in bright turquoise waters with the iconic silhouette of Bora Bora in the background. We decided to rest here for two nights before checking out and commencing our 1,300nm passage to Tonga.

Update 29/05/2025 07:30 GMT +13 – Neiafu, Tonga

We left Tahaa on the 16th of May. The first half of our 1,300nm trip was uneventful, boring even. There was no wind so we were under engine. Exactly at the middle point we experienced some excitement.

Suddenly we heard a rapidly swelling thundering noise. And the next second we saw a big private jet flying by behind Pelki at about 50 metres altitude!

Later that day we passed Palmerston. An intriguing little atoll with less than 40 inhabitants from only 3 families. A supply ship only visits twice a year and it is very tricky to anchor on the small shallow ledge just off the reef.

We had already seen the weather report and knew the wind would increase. At the most intense point we should have been behind Tonga. But the system came in faster than predicted. We had a wild ride, surfing off 5-6m swell with winds of 38 to 42kts. We furled the genoa down to just a couple square metres.  There was horizontal rain for several hours and here I was, in the tropics, full foul weather coat and trousers!

The sea was spectacular and beautiful.

The kids didn’t mind, they were enjoying a movie and popcorn. I’m proud of my family crew for being calm, brave and for not complaining about anything at times like that!

The next morning we pulled into Tonga just after crossing the dateline. So Saturday became Sunday and on Sunday you can’t clear in. So after 9 days at sea, we had to sit one more day at anchor. It was a beautiful spot but there was still a lot of rain.

What a relief it was the next day, after a relatively smooth and very friendly check-in procedure, to be on terra firma. Throughout the day the 6 of us split up where we could. After 5 months of living together in the confines of a yacht, we’re still all thick as thieves but naturally it’s refreshing to have a bit of a break and chat to other people.

The bay of Neiafu sits, like the tip of a fish hook, tucked in between the Tongan island. It’s extremely protected and calm. In the morning you hear the roosters from town but most of all the beautiful birdsong from the Tongan Whistlers in the jungle.

Yesterday morning we took the tender and went to a beautiful snorkeling spot. We were very aware that we’d be putting away the snorkel gear for the last time on this trip.

Update 06/06/2025 09:00 GMT +12 – Nadi Airport, Viti Levu, Fiji

This is the very last update on our epic 5 month voyage from Mallorca to Fiji.

We approached Viti Levu on Sunday morning and sailed very slowly towards the entrance of the reef. My excuse was that we were low on fuel, but secretly I might have wanted to stretch out that last beautiful sail. With the lush green hills underscored by the bright blue and white waves crashing over the reef as the backdrop, a pod of some 20 dolphins welcomed us. This was a final magic moment before we had to deal with more tedious matters.

I made the mistake of relying heavily on the local contact who is going to look after the boat from now on. Unfortunately they misinformed us about rules and regulations. In order to save on the weekend fees for customs, health and immigration check-in, they directed us to anchor out until Monday.

When I got to the customs office the next day, I was threatened with heavy fines and they were going to let me sit in the office shrugging their shoulders and sucking their teeth. It was a very uncomfortable situation. I was being highly apologetic and admitting to our innocent mistake. I also made clear that we had children on board -another indication that we are unlikely involved in any illicit business- and that therefore we would have preferred to check in on Sunday. Things started moving again and by the time they were on board and had met the kids, they had mellowed up.

Then the same local contact informed me that we couldn’t get into the marina he had arranged until high tide the next day.

We lost 2 days of handover preparations. But everybody pulled together to clean Pelki inside and out. I performed the last maintenance tasks and some minor repairs.

The owners arrived on Wednesday evening and were first and foremost interested in learning about our adventures in more detail over a relaxed dinner. They were very pleased with the state of the boat and the detailed handover.

I am extremely proud that we brought this yacht, which is a wonderful craft to sail around the islands but not purposely built for offshore passages, safely to Fiji. Thanks to detailed preparations, conservative sailing and amazing teamwork we pulled it off. But I am even more proud of the crew dynamic we’ve had until the very end. We all have our quirks and intolerances but with patience and love we got through the 12,720 nautical miles, halfway around the world!