Ship’s Journal from Mallorca to Fiji

Update 25/04/25 2025 CET-9,5hrs Tahuata

Last Monday we arrived in Hiva Oa after an 18 day passage from the Galapagos Islands. We had already noticed in the last week that small organisms had started to grow on the lowest step of the transom, the swimming platform. But when we got into the tender, after a celebratory drink, we saw how, about 30cm above the waterline,the hull was covered in a brown, greenish growth. Just like all the other boats in the bay. We looked like we’ve been at sea for a hundred years. We tied the tender up at the port next to the 45m supply vessel. It was Easter Monday and apart from the closed gas station, there was nothing to see in the port.

There was an almost eerie calm in the air. We started walking and after 100m Charlie Beau’s first request was fulfilled when we saw one of the Petite Cheval Marquisien or small Marquesian horses. It was a long walk to the village. We started to try and hitch a ride, unsure if it was something people do here. Before too long we got picked up by a pick up truck, fitted out with benches in the loading bay. They dropped us off in the desolate village. We had no local currency and luckily the second of the 2 ATM’s did actually work. We could not check in with immigration as the gendarmerie was closed as well. It would take until Wednesday before we were checked in as they were closed on Tuesday as well, due to planned power cuts. The same power cut that prevented us from fueling. So Tuesday we had a slow start and went up to one of the 5 restaurants on the whole island. It was up a steep hill and the views were breathtaking. In the afternoon we passed by the supermarket which has its own generator so it was till open. That’s where we discovered that the cost of living in the Marquesas is very high. The supermarket also doesn’t bother to stock much fruit and vegetables because the 2500 inhabitants all have access to their own, or their neighbours produce. If you’re a fisherman, you can trade or share your fish for some greens or even a piece of wild goat or boar your friend has hunted in the mountains.

On Wednesday we visited the grave of our fellow Belgian Jacques Brel who left from the marina in Antwerp where I had my first job after school to sail SY Askoy to Hiva Oa. I am in contact with Piet Wittevrongel in Belgium who started an association that restored the yacht. I have already offered to sail it back to the Marquesas!

We also visited the grave of Paul Gaugain and both the artist’s museums in the village.

In the afternoon, Jan and I started doing fuel runs. This meant filling a 65L and a 55L drum with diesel, hauling them over to the dock, lowering them 4m down into the tender, hauling them on deck, pumping the fuel over and repeating.

To be honest, the scarcity of certain things and the lack of resources such as a fuel dock, it does take getting used to.

On Thursday we met with a guide who proudly showed us his islands. Teiki Chastel possesses a wealth of knowledge on both archeological and contemporary socio-political affairs. He showed us the Tiki’s that are hidden in the jungle and the most beautiful bays and valleys of Hiva Oa.

Today, Friday, we sailed 10 nm to Tahuata, the next island, to find an incredibly, picture perfect beach. The anchorage is surprisingly busy though with some 20 boats here.

We went snorkeling and saw a variety of small and medium size reef fish. Most of all I was happy to see only one piece of plastic, which I took with me. After a gorgeous sunset, we turned on the underwater lights. After 30 minutes 4 black tip sharks, about 2 to 3m in length, started hunting around our stern. A 2,5m wide Manta ray performed a series of backward somersaults. An incredible spectacle!