Ship’s Journal from Mallorca to Fiji

Update 03/05/25 1915 CET-11,5 hrs a few miles south west of Nuku Hiva

Time flies by just as fast in the Pacific islands as it does anywhere else. Even the cruisers we meet never have enough of it. Perhaps the islanders here  do.

In Tahuata Sara and the kids got lost in the jungle. Only by listening for the surf break and looking for the sun, they found their way back. Between the boat and the beach they swam with sharks. Meanwhile I went aloft and finally got the pin back into the shackle that keeps our Code Zero up. We have our wings back! We sailed into the sunset for a 70 mile run to the island of Ua Poa. With the first morning light we rounded the ominous volcanic peaks and cliffs on the north west side. A spectacular sight and the dark clouds that hung above us made it all the more intimidating. We thought of finding shelter in the bay of Hakahau. But only a few smaller yachts were protected from the big swell behind the short breakwall. We anchored. But with enough chains out to feel safe we swung to where the waves built up to break just 10m behind us. A 15m sail yacht that had dragged anchor days before was perched on the rocks, serving as a bleak warning. The clouds and rain continued. There was a bad atmosphere there so we weighed anchor busts right out of there. As soon as we rounded the next cape the sun came out. We saw more of the island’s spectacular landscape as the clouds subsided and unveiled the majestic “Pillars”. We anchored in front of the very small community of Hakahetau. 

We went for a walk and a man sold us a box of mangoes for 1000 French Polynesian Francs (8,5€). We walked on and a woman picked mangoes for us with a long stick with a basket on it. It was unclear what she wanted in return, if anything. Remembering our guide Teiki’s words “Marquesans have everything, they just want money for what they don’t have”. Right or wrong we gave her some money, and walked away a bit confused. The only restaurant in the village required a 24hr heads up. Probably to get produce. So we ate in the best restaurant in the Pacific Ocean. The one on board Pelki. Jan and Sara had made arancini rice balls and seared tuna. 

The next day a short 4 hour passage took us to Nuku Hiva. Another majestic island with a bigger community in Taiohae. After running low on provisions it was exciting to see well stocked supermarkets. 

The second day, the kids and I were picked up by Akiona. A cow farmer who takes visitors on horse rides. In the back of his pickup truck, he drove us over the mountain ridge onto the plateau. We were in awe of the spectacular vegetation on the steep mountain edges. From time to time he had to slow down to avoid the free roaming horses and cows. The “Small Marquesan Horse” is descended from the Chilean horses in the Andes. They are incredibly strong. I saw one grazing on a steep slope in a stance I’ve never seen a horse in before. Marquesans are big guys and they use these horses to hunt in the mountains and herd their cows. Right before we mounted the horse Akiona casually asked if we had experience. Luckily we did! Ten minutes into the walk, without warning, he spurred on his horse to make it jump over a 40cm high fallen tree. So we had to follow suit! It was a beautiful ride in fresh cool forest air, the stuff of dreams. 

Wednesday was spent mostly on provisioning as the next day everything would shut for labour day.

On Thursday we rented two small cars as they didn’t have a van to seat 6 people. They were excellent downhill cars! Going uphill however required both skill and patience. We saw more of the island’s incredible, pure and wild nature. Kids on their horses, archeological tiki sites, wild pigs, clean river streams, waterfalls and the flora that never seizes to amaze. 

We were getting ready to leave on Friday when disaster struck. Sara went to undo a line from the tender and suddenly shouted “ouch OUCH!”. I stood 3 feet away from her, looked over to her, and saw a heavily bleeding hand. I grabbed her hand and thought her nail had been half ripped out. I pushed it up and behind her head and said “Don’t look”. I shouted “Get ice!” An immediately reacted with sterile gauze and ice. From behind me I heard Jan say “Whoa whoa” he pointed to the cleat where he saw a piece of his girl’s finger still sitting between the lines. I picked it up, An brought 2 ziplock bags and we put it all on ice. All the while Sara was cool as a cucumber! We gave her two big painkillers, put her in the tender and Jan and I raced to the shore. They got out and Jan flagged down the first car. Ten minutes after the accident, Sara was in the E.R. of the hospital which was luckily close to the dingy dock! 

The piece was too small to reattach though and hopefully it will -pretty much- grow back. 

Sara hates to be a party pooper and insisted we all went to the local school recital. We saw toddlers, teenagers and moms perform typical Polynesian dances while we were enjoying a delicious meal. 

The audience was also dressed up in traditional dress and were equally interesting to admire. 90% of Marquesans, both men and women have tattoos. This is where the Westerners first discovered the art of tattooing or Patutiki as they call it here. Many of them have tattoos in their face but there was one man that I would have asked to portrait if I had a serious camera with me. His face was almost entirely covered. It is a serious part of their culture and the Marquesas islands have Patutiki signs that are unique to their islands and carry a beautiful symbolism.

Sara’s permanent mark was redressed this morning. We are helping her with pain management and of course are very wary to avoid infection! The nurses said it was well under control and if we looked after her we were free to go. 

So now, after one last play date with Charlie and Ocean with the kids of another yacht, we are slowly rolling towards Fakarava under Code Zero. Charlie Beau asked if she could actually say “Fakarava” because it sounds offensive! We should be in the Tuamotu atoll by Wednesday.