Ship’s Journal from Mallorca to Fiji

Update 16/05/25 1515 CET-12hrs 10Nm South of Bora Bora

The crossing from Nuku Hiva to Fakarava in the Tuamotus was a breeze. We saw the predicted lightning and thunderstorms but they kept their distance from us. We arrived at the planned time, last Wednesday. 

Fakarava is a truly fascinating place. The North passage is wide and easy to get into, on most days. Most other entrances of these atolls are tricky to get in. After heavy rainfall the water flows out of the lagoon creating adverse currents of -in some places- up to more than 8 knots.

The North West side of the atoll is where most of the 800 inhabitants live. Even at its widest, you have to walk less than 600m to go from the lagoon beach to the ocean beach. 

There is one road about 35 kms long and everybody lives on either side of it. 

About 5% of them work in the 5 or 6 pearl farms. Others run hostels, work in tourism or for government organisations. 

We went for lunch ashore and were impressed with how clean and manicured everything looked. There was a calm atmosphere, perhaps the island’s largest attraction. The lunch shack had its own jetty. Pretty soon we were excited to spot the sharks patrolling close to the beach. It’s crazy how quickly one gets used to these spectacular sights. When we saw nurse sharks swimming right on the beach we almost thought it was as normal as seeing pigeons on the market square. 

While pearls are cultivated in the lagoon, shells and coral with the most mesmerising colours and shapes are all over the windward, Ocean side beach. We ended up at the small graveyard where graves were decorated with shells, corals and even pearls. One grave had the deceased’s wedding band lying on top. Another confirmation of the Polynesian’s honesty and friendliness we had this far experienced. 

We bought some beautiful pearl souvenirs at the Steiner’s family shop. The same family turned out to own the most fancy of the 6 restaurants on the island. Lucien Steiner was born Swiss but arrived in Fakarava 50 years ago. He married a Polynesian wife and his two beautiful daughters are now involved in the pearl farm, the shop and the restaurant. When, after dinner he found out we were into music he told me he would get his bass. He pushed a guitar in my hands and he placed an upside down plastic bin between his leg. From the middle of the bottom, a leather string came out which was attached to a stick. By changing the tension of the leather string he accompanied my 3 guitar chords. Charlie Beau and Oceaan sang their songs and Lucien was very very excited. His daughters were less impressed and clearly dying to close the restaurant for the night. 

The next morning, Saturday, we’d fuel up and leave. After about 100 liters the flow stopped due to a power cut. This would be resolved by 3pm when they’d open again. No stress. One last lunch ashore at the shack of our first lunch. 

One out of the 4 days that we were there it had rained intensely all day. So we were pushed out of the reef cut but met with a steep ocean surf. We picked the least daunting looking part and plowed straight into it. After a minute or 2 we were out of the groundswell and started our calm, windless passage to Huahine. A great passage for stainless steel polishing. After less than 48hrs of motoring we saw the sun rise over Huahine as we entered it’s north west reef passage. It refreshed vague memories for An and myself from 15 years ago when we were here on an Oyster 82. Once inside the reef the water was like glass. A pod of dolphins with long pointy snouts greeted us. We almost missed them as we were so in awe by the beautiful landscape and coastline. We wiggled our way south inside the reef, negotiating shallows which are mostly well marked, but not always. 

The different shades of blue the water shows off can’t be described. 

We saw the CNB76 Cloudy Night lying at anchor and went to say high to ex Invisible Crew Adam and Martina. An and I cleaned the last traces of the Galapagos to Marquesas growth off the hull. Pelki is fully presentable again. 

We feel the end of the trip is nearing. We feel it mostly in our planning decisions. There isn’t much margin anymore and we have to get a move on!

With a feeling of regret we left the fairytale decor for Raiatea just 20 miles further. The anchorages of Raiatea were crowded. We struggled to find a good spot and luckily noticed just in time, before being told off, that the end of the runway wouldn’t be it. 

The village Uturoa, which has a marina and small boatyard, isn’t very charming. We did see locals practicing Polynesian percussion and dance but that was the only highlight. 

After another provisioning and fuel stop, we crossed the channel to Taha’a, situated within the same barrier reef. 

We anchored in front of the resort with stilt house cabanas standing in bright turquoise waters with the iconic silhouette of Bora Bora in the background. 

We decided to rest here for two nights before checking out and commencing our 1.300nm passage to Tonga. 

As I am writing this we have Bora Bora on our starboard and we are well on our way to Tonga. On our route we will have to avoid North Island, a barrier reef of 6,5nm at its widest connecting a few rocks in the middle of 2000m deep Ocean water. Another mindblowing obstacle is the 9m shallow Antiope Reef, also situated far from anything surrounded by 2000m deep Ocean waters. 

We expect to arrive in Neiafu, in Tonga’s Vava’u Group in about 9 days, by the 25th of May. This is our last big passage. After that we only have one more hop over to Viti Levu, Fiji and the delivery, halfway around the world will be completed.