Ship’s Journal from Mallorca to Fiji

Update 02/04/25 14:30 hr (GMT-7) San Cristobal Galapagos.

The night after my last report was the most uncomfortable since the very first night of our journey. As forecasted, a Westerly breeze set in. The latest forecast revealed that it would subside in the morning and it would come back for a few hours more before reaching a calm that surrounded the islands. So we bore away about 60⁰ so the wind angle would be more favourable and especially the banging of the waves would be reduced. With minimal stress on rig and hull we actually made good time. The horizontal rain that lasted all night made the night watches very unpleasant for all. The day after was quite benign and we could point better in the right direction again. 

All the while we were accompanied by 2 or 4 blue footed boobies and a tern. The birds were so tame I could stroke them. They made a big mess though, which was hard to clean up. Jan and the kids made a huge effort in trying to scare them away with loud noises and big gestures but the feathered fellas were either unimpressed or confused about the intentions of these loud humans. The wildlife clearly indicated we were nearing the islands where animals are king. These wouldn’t be the last animal droppings we’d have to clean up…

On Friday the 2th of March we completed the 7 day passage from Panama City to San Cristobal Galapagos. 

Our anchor wasn’t even properly set when the first sea lion came to say hello. We were warned to barricade the transom steps so they couldn’t jump on deck. 

Checking in happened at the agreed time. A water taxi brought a team of about 8 officials on board. Navy, environmental protection, a doctor, an immigration officer and customs. They saw we were well organised and within 45 mins we were allowed to lower the yellow quarantine flag and welcomed on land. We weren’t sure whether we were allowed to take our own tender ashore. The agent informed us:”No problem with that but when you come back to the tender dock there will be about 8 sea lions on board and the cubs like to sink their teeth in the inflatable parts.” So 1 dollar water taxi rides have been our means of transportation since we are here. 

On Sunday I went diving and the rest of the gang snorkeled at Kicker Rock. The snorkelers saw big turtles, lot’s of fish and Jan caught a glimpse of a shark. 

20 meters deeper down, I was blowing bubbles in the incredible company of various sharks. Black tips, white tips, Galapagos and even 2 hammerhead sharks. I also swam in a large school of fish and became engulfed by it in complete darkness, which was a mind blowing experience.

Sunday night was less fun as Charlie became violently sick. Our favourite water taxi driver told us there’s a 2 day stomach virus going round, it clearly stepped aboard the Pelki. 

On Monday it was time for provisioning, laundry and fuel bunkering. I heard bad things about the quality of fuel. It was delivered by a small boat carrying dirty drums and transferred by a dirty hose. We had prepared a few empty 1 gallon water bottles so I could take a sample of each drum before committing to filling our tanks. This was somewhat reassuring but I did refuse one barrel with murky fuel. We should now carry enough fuel to get through the windless first few days before reaching moderate tradewinds that should push us over the 3000 Nm to Nuku Hiva Marquesas. 

Charlie recovered quickly and on Tuesday we drove up to the freshwater lagoon in the dormant crater of El Junco where the Frigats come to clean the salt water of their feathers. We also went to the giant land turtle breeding center to see these prehistoric and impressive looking creatures with our own eyes. 

Then we took a refreshing swim at the stunning beach of Puerto Chino. I believe this is the most beautiful beach I have ever been to! The powdersand is incredibly soft and the pale white colour creates a spectacular contrast with the lava rocks. Then there is the deep green lush vegetation and turquoise blue to complete the perfect picture. There is a total absence of construction, not too many people and you have to basically walk around the finches (seabirds) and sea lions.

Apart from Charlie and I the crew went back on board after a nice and typical menu del dia. When they stepped aboard they found our barricade had been compromised. A big sea lion was chilling on the cockpit floor and an even bigger one was lounging on the sofa… They spent hours rinsing away the excrements from the deck and grease, hair and smell from the cushions. Sea lions are funny-not-funny. 

Last night was also less funny as both Sara and An fell victim to the tummy virus. I’m going to guess Jan is once again unshakeable and I am currently fighting it off with a certain degree of success. Oceaan is still bouncing around. The kids are spending time with two girls (9 and 12) from another yacht who had already heard about Ocean and Charlie in Shelter Bay! 

Jan and I went to do a big provisioning session at the local market which was a nice experience. 

We hope that we’re all healthy tomorrow, ready to clear out and attack the 2nd (after the Atlantic) of the two 3000nm legs of this delivery.