Jill Mott, sommelier and consultant, walks us through the vineyards of Mallorca’s greatest grapes.
Whether you’re sailing the seas or basking in the coastal sunshine, the Mediterranean offers some of the world’s most unique wines. Grapes like Catarratto, Manto Negro, Rolle and Nielluccio are constantly caressed by sea breezes and rarely found elsewhere, their spiritual homes their sacred growing niche. Most of these local varieties, when made well and with less intervention, exude aromas of garrigue, a French word that encapsulates the surrounding scrub brush/flora. Think of a glass wafting tantalizing aromas of fruits melded with the Tramontana, Gennargentu or the Calanques.
Mallorca is home to dozens of local varieties found only in the Baleares. These wines pair lovely with Mediterranean fare, show up for the best of fusion flare and can also stand on their own without food. Take the likes of Manto Negro, a grape that produces coppery, light salmon-hued, dry rosés and darker but still reminiscent of raspberry reds that pack a lot of angular, distinct flavour while staying true to its light-coloured identity. Fresh and bright and perfect for summer.
Giró Ros is a ‘white’ grape that’s actually strawberry-blonde once fully ripe. If a winemaker presses straight away after harvest, you’ll experience a fresh wine with a little weight and girth on the palate. When a producer decides to employ a little maceration (think rosé/red winemaking or steeping tea in hot water), you’ll get an interesting orange wine that mimics the colour of the grape on the vine with slight tannins and a rounder mouth feel. A lovely and extremely versatile accompaniment to many dishes!
Callet is the island’s elegance calling card. Some hail this the Pinot Noir of Mallorca for its fine texture, ability to age and affinity for oak (preferably older wood that caresses fine fruit as opposed to new oak that can potentially bruise it). The grape’s grace has been heralded for centuries, especially in the village of Felanitx. Most winemakers prefer to make a red opposed to a rosé, for the grape’s delicacy and refinement as a tinto are too prized.
You’ve likely heard of Malvasía as its grown widely around the Mediterranean. Google, ‘Banyalbufar’. These incredible ancient terraces used to be riddled with Malvasía whose village has given its name to a specific clone of the grape only found here. Banyalbufar’s terraces have been adorned with grapes since the 10th century and the Malvasía now found throughout the island is native to this historical place. The Moors’ incredible knowledge of irrigation made viticulture prevalent and possible, and today we can still taste why folks were so fond of this grape’s filigree, with exotic spices and floral nuances, all in a dry, pristine package that’s a wonder to drink.
Balearic-based producers that craft one or more of the grape varieties mentioned are listed below. Available in Palma and throughout the island in discerning wine shops, pop the cork and absorb the island’s vinous riches!
Soca-Rel | Binissalem
Can Majoral | Algaida
Jugo Vins | Santa Margalida
Galmés i Ribot | Santa Margalida
Sistema Vinari | Santa Margalida
Cas Quitxero | Santa María + Llubí
