Having lived for two years on Sant Magi, right opposite the location of new Roman restaurant, Giromatto, it is always with fascination when I watch a new place open on one of the most vibrant streets in Santa Catalina. I’ve been in and around the area a few times since she threw her doors at the beginning of the year and there is a palpable buzz emanating from within. Whether it’s on a sunny day with all of the façade windows fully thrown open or on one of our less delightful days where the moody whether outside is perfectly complimented by a warm and inviting interior. This restaurant feels like it has been part of the barrio all of its life and its feet are firmly planted beneath the table.
When Anouska, my wonderful photographer and ever trusty companion and I get to visit, it is one of those rumbling grey days where rain is constantly threatened but never quite arrives. Mallorca, infamous for its streets and restaurants emptying at the merest hint of the wet stuff is certainly defying the odds when it comes to Giromatto. We arrive at the beginning of lunch service and there is already a large table of ten immaculately dressed business men and women who were clearly international but with English as their common language. They were a couple of courses and bottles of wine in and were enjoying every aspect of the restaurant and its food.
Other than that group we are the only table at first, however within ten minutes of us sitting down, the door has opened and closed more times than I can count and there is not a spare seat in sight. It was a mixture between reservations and walk-ins but I would definitely say that if this is the restaurant that you really want to eat at, and it should be, then definitely book. So popular is it with locals and tourists alike, that when the next door restaurant had finished their own lunchtime service, where did they eat, yes, you guessed it, Giromatto. That is surely the greatest compliment a restaurant can receive.
And it’s so obvious why Giromatto has gained immediate popularity. It is a combination of two very simple, yet often overcomplicated ingredients: excellent food and a welcome that will leave you grinning from ear to ear. These two things are achieved by Matteo, who exudes confidence and happiness and a cheekiness that is infectious as he invites you in and constantly ensures that everything is to your satisfaction, and his equally wonderful partner Giulia who is cooking up a Roman storm in the kitchen. It is food served with love, which considering it was love at first sight when they met on 1 September 2001, when Matteo arranged a horse riding trip for the visiting Giulia, that this is no surprise.
We kick the lunch off with Grilled and fried artichoke with mint. It is one of my favourite vegetables and I was really excited to try it. It came our beautifully presented, almost like a lotus flower and the delicate presence of the mint lifted the dish to something beyond the ordinary. The different ways that it had been prepared added to the changing textures. It was certainly a winner for me. The second starter that we shared was the warm caprese with PDO mozzarella, fresh tomato and basil oil. The colours of the tomatoes were literally glowing and because they were cooked as opposed to your standard caprese salad, the flavours were full and strong. The pastry was a nice touch adding extra depth to a classic dish with a twist.
Our mains were equally scrumptious. Anouska had the Spaghetti Giromatto, with red prawns, cherry tomato, burrata, lemon peel, parsley and black pepper. She said the flavours were full and strong with the lemon adding a freshness to it that really complimented the prawns. I had the Rigatoni Gioviale with basil and walnut pesto, cherry tomato, zucchini, smoked provola cheese and pecorino, named after the beautiful Café Gioviale which he owned for many years on the tranquil island of Formentera. This is a dish that is so rich and smoky that despite its large size, you literally cannot stop eating it. It was hearty and delicious and exactly what the doctor ordered on a day like the day it was.
There are so many other dishes on the menu that I want to go back and try, such as the veal dish, which I have on good authority is amazing, which Matteo brought out to each table as they ordered in order for the customer to choose the perfect piece of meat for them. When the table next to us ordered it I had food envy despite not being able to squeeze another mouthful in. Well, apart from dessert that is. Thankfully the red fruit cheesecake was as light as air which enabled us to finish off our meal without exploding.
Giromatto takes its food as seriously as Matteo is not. The décor is fun and different, and encapsulates his personality to a tee. If you wish to learn how to ask for spaghetti without words, practice the sign for luck, or if you need to swear silently in Italian then look no further than the art that adorns the walls. Not that Matteo and Giulia are not working crazily hard, they just seem to do it so effortlessly, because it is clear that they truly love their vocation. Giromatto is a delight to behold and is clearly here to stay. Buona fortuna mi amici!
By Victoria Pearce
Photos: Anouska Stelmach
Giromatto
C/ SANT MATGÍ, 84, 07013 PALMA
(+34) 871 533 615
