In the yachting industry we are obsessed with quality. When the guests on board are used to the best, it is the chef’s responsibility to know the difference between brands and quality on the products they use, no matter how small the difference may be.
Such is the case, for example, with the famous dry-cured Spanish hams known the world over as “jamón”
We spoke to Santiago Salas Acevedo, Provisions Specialist at Nº12 Fine Wines & Provisions, who states that ” jamón is one of those products that due to the different classifications, coloured tags and denominations is often quite confusion to our customers.”
After completing his studies at the Basque Culinary Center, Santiago was lucky to have learned most of what he knows about jamón from working with gastronomy masters such as Mikel Zeberio and Ferran & Albert Adrià of El Barri. He explains that there are European certified quality stamps that give certain guarantees to the buyers, but there is more to it than meets the eye’
In Spain, jamón is classified depending on the type of pig breed from which they are made. Here two large groups can be highlighted: jamón made from white pigs and jamón made from Iberian pigs (black pigs).
Within the group of jamón made from white pigs, which also account for 93% of the national production, we can find 6 different types that are internationally well known.
- Jamón Serrano,
- Jamón del consorcio del jamón Serrano Español,
- Jamón PDO Teruel,
- Jamón PGI Trevélez,
- Jamón PGI Serón
- Jamón curado.
These Serrano hams are then classified according to their quality stamps:
- TSG (Traditional specialty guaranteed) – Entry Level
- PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) – Mid-level quality
- PGI (Protected Geographical Indication) – highest level quality
“Though there are variations in quality, the vast majority of these hams come from intensive farming and fed with different types of grains. That is why the quality and flavor is usually inferior to jamón made from Iberian pigs”, he says.
Serrano hams also differ in their curing time, which usually ranges between 7 and 18 months and, as with wines, if they meet a certain minimum period of preparation, they may bear on their label the mentions of Bodega or cava (9 months of Curing), Reserva or Añejo (12 months of curing) or Gran Reserva (15 months of curing). While their Iberian brothers usually range between 20 and 24 months.
The hams made from black pigs or Iberian pigs also have their way of classification, starting with the purity of the breed. They can only be called “Iberian ham” if the purity of the breed with which they are made is greater than 50%, meaning that the mother must be 100% Iberian and the father is Iberian or Duroc (Duroc is the only breed of pig allowed in the crossing of Iberian pigs for the production of Iberian ham); if the purity is 75%, meaning that the mother is pure breed and father is at least 50% Iberian or if the breed is 100% Iberian.
Another aspect to consider, in addition to the purity of the breed, is a second classification. A designated classification according to the feeding of the pigs. Santiago explains that, for his clients, it is extremely important to know that there are 3 key denominations:
- Bellota (Acorn fed)
These animals have been raised in free range areas on pastures and their diet includes a fattening phase based on grass and acorns from the local “Dehesas”. The 100% Iberian breed follows this regime of type of feeding and produces the highest quality hams. On their labeling they carry a black seal and are also known as “pata negra”. Livestock with a purity between 50% and 75% can also be fed “Bellota” but their seal is red.
- De Cebo de Campo (grains and grassing fed)
The Cebo de Campo hams produced from pigs that have been freely raised in pastures and their diet consists of a combination of different grains. Animals with a purity between 50% and 100% and fed in this way will bear a green seal.
- Cebo (grain fed)
Cebo hams are made from pigs that have been raised in feedlots or stables with an intensive regime and their food source at their fattening phase boasts different kind of plant-based nourishment. Pigs with a purity between 50% and 100% fed this way will carry a white seal.
Which is branded quality jamón do you recommend your clientele?
“We typically get asked for highest quality Jamón Ibérico, and among the best-known producers that I often like to recommend are the “5J Reserva”, “Joselito Gran Reserva”, “10 Vetas Sierra Mayor de Jabugo” & “Jamón Ibérico COVAP Alta Expresión de Los Pedroches”. These are the brands used by many of the Michelin star chefs in Spain.
Santiago Salas Acevedo
Food & Provisioning Specialists
+34 684 156 848
santiago@no12wines.com
Av. Joan Miro 166, !A
07015, Palma de Mallorca
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