Every day as we sail or travel around the harbour, we see the history of Mahón laid out before us – Isla del Rey, Quarantine Island, the Lazaretto, Fort Mola, Fort San Felipe and the more modern naval base, still operational today.
Perhaps more than any other feature, Isla del Rey has a story that spans centuries. From early Christianity to British rule, French invasions, and more recently, cultural revival, this island has worn many hats – including serving as one of the world’s largest naval hospitals.
Isla del Rey (or Illa del Rei) is a small island of just over 41,000 square metres sitting right in the middle of Mahón harbour. Traces of human presence date back to the 6th century when a Paleo-Christian basilica was built here with three naves and a font paved in mosaics. Hidden for centuries, it was uncovered in 1888 by local farmers. The restored mosaic is now displayed in the Museum of Menorca.
Once called Rabbit Island, it became Isla del Rey (“King’s Island”) in 1287, when King Alfonso III of Aragon used it as his base before reclaiming Menorca from Moorish rule. The legend goes that, during a wait for reinforcements, the King struck his sword into the ground and a freshwater spring appeared – a small miracle in a time of thirst.
The island later passed into the hands of the Xerés family until the British arrived in the 18th century. It was Admiral Jennings who saw its strategic potential and invested £468 of his own funds to construct the first naval hospital buildings in 1711. By 1740, visitor John Armstrong described it as a “capacious hospital” with facilities for officers, surgeons, and even the fleet’s commodore. He marvelled at the island’s breezy, peaceful beauty, calling it a potential “retirement for the contemplative mind.”
In 1756 the French took Menorca, but by 1763 the island returned to British hands. The hospital expanded, gaining an upper floor, 40 wards with up to 30 beds each, and further auxiliary buildings under Spanish control, including a chapel and priests’ quarters. At its height, Isla del Rey supported a population of over 4,000 patients, doctors, nurses and workers.
By the 1830s, the hospital’s reputation had spread across Europe. The French, newly in Algeria, asked to use the facility. The U.S. Navy treated sailors here injured in conflicts with North African pirates. Only Jamaica’s naval hospital surpassed it in global importance.
A revival began in 2004 when the Associació Amics de l’Illa de l’Hospital embarked on a mission to restore the island’s historical structures. Their dedication culminated in the establishment of a foundation in 2005, spearheaded by General Luis Alejandre. Today, visitors can explore over 40 meticulously restored rooms, including operating theatres, an autopsy room, a pharmacy, and even x-ray facilities. A poignant memorial honors the 248 sailors from the battleship Roma, treated here after a 1943 bombing.
In a harmonious blend of history and contemporary art, 2021 marked the inauguration of Hauser & Wirth Menorca on the island. This art center, housed within the sensitively repurposed 18th-century naval hospital buildings, offers eight galleries, an outdoor sculpture trail featuring works by renowned artists, and a garden designed by Piet Oudolf. The adjacent Cantina restaurant serves local cuisine under the shade of olive trees, enhancing the visitor experience. The center has welcomed over 258,000 visitors since its opening, reflecting its success in intertwining art, education, and conservation.
As of 2025, Isla del Rey continues to thrive as a cultural and historical beacon. Hauser & Wirth Menorca’s current exhibition, “Vibrant Matter” by Mika Rottenberg, runs until October 26, offering visitors an immersive artistic experience.
For those eager to delve into this unique fusion of history and art, shuttle boats operate from Mahón’s harbour to Isla del Rey. Further information on visiting can be found at Hauser & Wirth Menorca and Yellow Catamarans.
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